![]() Set your lens to manual focus, and set the focus point on the closest part of the image (nearest part you want in sharp focus). Again, you should test your lenses to see what the sharpest setting is for each lens, but if you don’t know it will usually be in the range of f/5.6 – f/8.0. To focus stack what you do is, take multiple pictures of the exact same thing at your lens’s sharpest aperture setting. To do that, use a technique called focus stacking. Sometimes, however, you need to break out the heavy artillery and make sure everything – from what is right in front of you all the way to infinity – is in focus. Get acquainted with hyperfocal distance (or keep a hyperfocal distance chart handy) to see how large you can make your aperture, yet still maximize depth of field. This shows that you don’t always need to use an aperture like f/22. For example, if you are using a full-frame camera with a 20mm lens, even using an aperture of f/8 will keep everything sharp from 5.5 feet in front of you, all the way to infinity! You don’t necessarily need to use the smallest aperture possible, particularly when you are shooting wide-angle. If you are shooting outdoors, which is generally where you will want a small aperture and maximum depth of field, you should become acquainted with the subject of hyperfocal distance.ĭespite its complex-sounding name, hyperfocal distance is just a measure of how close you can focus and still keep the background of your image acceptably sharp. Keep in mind that you don’t always need to use the smallest aperture that your lens offers, to get a sufficient depth of field. You may find yourself wondering how to get a large depth of field without using a very small aperture. Maximizing Depth of Field with Larger Apertures When possible, default to using an aperture in this range. In addition, the sharpest aperture for most people will be about f/5.6 – f/8, or about 1-2 stops smaller than the wide-open aperture setting. Most experts consider this range something of a maximum. ![]() If you don’t want to do any testing and just want a quick rule of thumb for avoiding the effects of diffraction, avoid using an aperture smaller than f/11 or f/16 on a full frame camera (if your camera has a smaller sensor, diffraction sets in at even larger apertures). After you have taken the pictures, load them onto your computer, zoom-in on each, and compare. In addition, make sure you are increasing (making longer) your shutter speed by an equal amount every time you change your aperture so that your exposure stays the same. Be sure to use a tripod so your picture is exactly the same. To see how it works on your camera and lens, just take the exact same picture at each aperture setting (in 1-stop increments). What is the smallest aperture you should use? And what is the best aperture setting? Unfortunately, there is no one perfect answer. Okay, so now you see that diffraction is a real phenomenon, and you want to avoid it. What’s the result of this to your photography? In a word: softness.Īgain, the f/8 detail is sharper than that shot with the smallest aperture.īy looking at these examples, you can see that diffraction is not just theory, it has real affect on your photos. The following graphic illustrates how this works: The effect is more pronounced in digital sensors with a high density of megapixels since they have smaller photosites. Essentially, the spread causes the light to hit the wrong photosite and causes blur. This “spread” can cause the light rays to hit adjacent photosites. When the aperture is very small, however, light rays spread out from the small aperture onto the digital sensor. When the aperture is large, light moves freely through the aperture onto the digital sensor. What is diffraction? Let me explain.Īs you are probably aware, the aperture is the opening in the lens that lets light into the camera. There is a phenomena in photography called diffraction that has an adverse effect on your pictures, and sets in when you use smaller apertures. That will maximize your depth of field and have your picture looking sharp from front to back. You reach for the camera’s aperture control and crank it down all the way to f/22 (or f/32 if your lens allows). You know you need a really large depth of field, and you know what you need to do to get it. ![]() So you are out shooting and you want to capture the full scene in front of you – all the way from what is directly in front of you to the background way off in the distance.
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